ITRIA VALLEY: between culture and tradition
The adventure of discovering Apulia begins with this first article: I’ll write to you about a place which combines - in one go - all the essence of Apulia, from traditions to nature: the Itria Valley.
Shared by the three provinces of Bari, Brindisi and Taranto, the valley is just a depression due to Karst phenomena located between the towns of Martina Franca, Cisternino and Locorotondo.
Its principal peculiarity is the presence of "trulli" all over the zone. First they were used as temporary shelters for shepherds, then, since the 18th century, they have been turned into real houses built using traditional stone masonry with a conical roof.
Today trulli are the emblem of Apulia and a tourist attraction which is gaining more and more increasing interest. You can discover them wandering through country roads or visiting them in Alberobello, the Capital of Trulli, in the UNESCO World Heritage sites list since 1996. These charming houses, symbols of the architecture of ”rural culture” will take you back in the past, in a trip that will show you examples of deep- rooted Christianity such as the imposing Church of Alberobello as well as examples of heathen nature such as the magic, propitiatory symbols painted on the cones of trulli.
The Itria Valley is not only the magic of trulli: every surrounding town has something to offer to tourists, beginning from Martina Franca, with its baroque architectures in its historic centre, such as the Ducal Palace (now the Town Hall),whose building was completed in 1773, about after a century, or the Church of San Domenico, of 1746. Going on among narrow streets, blind alleys and secluded roads, which make the centre a real labyrinth revealing wonderful, unique “corners”, you can discover the great artistic cultural treasures the town offers.
Few kilometres far from Martina Franca there is Locorotondo, included among the finest towns in Italy, overlooking the Itria Valley which can be seen from the walk running along the perimeter of the town with a breathtaking view.
Locorotondo is a nice town standing around its Mother Church, dating back to the beginning of the 19th century, and the City Hall, crossed by narrow, concentric streets and full of modest little houses, the one leaning to the other, charming for the bright white of lime and for the small windows adorned with plants and flowers, as well as for its typical sloping roofs: you will feel part of a fantastic but Mediterranean flavoured scenery. Then, stop and taste a glass of very good CDO white wine made by Locorotondo cellars: you ‘ll be conquered by the flavour of these grapes!
Then, the adventure goes on towards Cisternino, sited on one of the highest hills of southern Murgia, plunged into the green of olive trees, among trulli and farms painting the landscape. Cisternino looks like a peaceful town: coming in through the medieval Tower of Porta Grande, among cosy cloisters and narrow streets bordered by very simple, white buildings adorned with flowers and plants, you can get to the Mother Church of Saint Nicholas. It was built in the 14th century by Basilian Monks and inside it’s possible to admire the ruins of an ancient early Christian church on which it was built, such as the central apse, the base of the altar, or the remains of the polychrome frescos covering its walls.
At last, after discovering Cisternino too, it’s time to find out also the traditional flavours of the place. Surely you can’t help experiencing the typical “macellerie con fornelli pronti” that is butcher’s shops where you can buy raw meat to take home or to have it grilled and to eat on the spot. You can order very good meat directly from the fridge counter and sit at the tables scattered among the alleys. With sausages, “bombette” (typical rolls of pork and cheese) and “gnumaredde” (typical rolls of lamb giblets) you will be surely rewarded for all your day weariness!
Now you cannot but rest….perhaps in one of the restful, quiet farms scattered in the Itria Valley…
Author: Paolo Casavola
